Saint Sylvestre/New Years Eve in Paris

It's New Year's Eve, or 'la Saint-Sylvestre' in Paris and in keeping with tradition, there are a few things to expect of tonight/today - the eating of New Years' Eve staples - foie gras, papillotes and the drinking of mulled wine along with crucial, sparkling white alcoholic beverages to usher in 2011!

There is no excuse whatsoever to not join in tonight's festivities. The city provides a very enabling environment for celebration and the ushering in of a new year tailored to the tastes of this beautiful, cosmopolitan organism that is called Paris!

There is plenty on queue that can be easily accessed through google - it's quite fun to get educated on New Year's Eve traditions here, and all that I can say is that I'm excited and privileged to be here. Well, apart from the prospect of being witness to young men with overly high levels of testosterone burning people's cars in honour of the New Year - pretty much everything else seems open to the possibilities of a terrific New Years Eve in the city of lights!

Wikipedia gives an interesting contextualisation of New Years Eve in France, describing it as such:

New Years Eve in France

The French call New Year's Eve "la Saint-Sylvestre". It is usually celebrated with a feast called le Réveillon de la Saint-Sylvestre (also called Cap d'Any in Northern Catalonia). This feast customarily includes special dishes like foie gras, seafood such as oysters and drinks like champagne. The celebration can be a simple, intimate dinner with friends and family or a much fancier ball (une soirée dansante).

On le Jour de l'An (New Year's Day), friends and family exchange New Year's resolutions kisses and wishes, the main ones being "Bonne Année", Bonheur, Sante, Amour, Argent ("Good Year", Happiness, Health, Love and Money). Some people eat desserts made of ice cream[19]

The holiday period ends on January 6 (The Twelfth Night) for the Epiphany, or Jour des Rois. On this day, they celebrate the Wise Men, eating a traditional type of flat pastry cake, la galette des rois, most often two sheets of puff pastry, filled with frangipane (almond paste). The cake contains a fève, small china character, that whoever finds becomes king or queen and get to wear a gold paper crown, then chose their partner. This tradition can last up to two weeks."

of the best sites on travel to Paris gives an extensive guide on what to do on New Years Eve in Paris - here

And it was quite nice seeing the Eiffel tower at news years eve 2009/2010 in this clip of New year celbrations around the world on France 24

While it's highly unlikely that I'll find myself at an energetic New Years' Eve party o club full of young undergraduates - this site for students on what to do tonight was interesting to look at for ideas. A couple of them, including dinner on a cruise on the Seine were interesting, but pricy little ideas on how to usher in the new year.

With all of this information - insight into preceding New Year's Eve celebrations, cultural practices ( what to say and eat ; anunderstanding of the risks ( car-burning disgruntled youth), Associated benefits (free transport on the metro) and the diverse options and market for "Saint-Sylvestre" celebrants - I'm ready to usher in 2011!!

La Seine: Grainy mobile phone images from the early evening of the 30th Dec...

"In the Papers"

...of tax increases in 2011, "Become Outraged" and New Years Eve cocktail ideas

Pivotal Paris Politics - 2010 France in Retrospect

It's the enf of yet another year - and in keeping with the season, lonely editors and reporters, and dedicated ones too - take this down time to pull together the highlights of the past year. often compelling them into the "best of...' whatever it is books, movies ... whatever it is ...of the year. Living in Paris has been very interesting politically. Being at the centre of a very centralised political entity - Paris is where most of the news happens in France. Given several cultural and historical factors - Paris is not only the de jure and de facto political, cutural, historical centre of France - it holds a monopoly over the entire country's political agenda. At least this is what the past year's news stories seem to confirm.

France 24 describes 2010 as the " year of unrest and soul-searching in France, marked by political scandals, painful social reforms, a crackdown on Roma migrants and heated debates on national identity and the "burqa ban". " in this look at the "Big Stories of 2010"

Arguably, the common thread of 2010 has been the demonstration of the importance of the politics that takes place almost squarely here in Paris - and in the executive branch of government. And by implication, the absence of other viable centres of political power to counter balance "Paris" and the Champs Elysees. Next year will bear much of the same - if not more - as the presidency moves closer to 2012 where elections are due. As was the case in 2010, 2011 will likely only further underscore that France is perhaps not necessarily governed by 'the people' but is necessarily run from its disproportionately powerful centre, Paris.

Rising River Seine

France 24 among others reports on the river Seine recording exceptionally high water levels - apparently the highest since 1910.
There isn't much evidence of any official acknowledgement of an imminent flooding of the Seine's banks (or any apparent bursting of the river toward the streets of central Paris!) - but should it happen, that should make for some interesting times in the city.

Click here for an interesting France24 piece on the rising Seine.

Paris' "Most beautiful metro stops"

'Why Go :Paris " , a brilliant travel website, gives beautiful pictures of some of the most stunning Paris metro stops.

Click here for a link to a set of 'sweet' images of some of the city's pretty, pretty interesting and interesting-looking metro stops.

"Metrostop Paris" by Gregor Dallas

I recently picked up an entertaining read that I knew would be interesting from line one of Chapter one which reads "The best time to visit Metrostop No. 1, Denfert-Rochereau is in the morning of Paris's first day at work, which for most people in Paris is on a Tuesday."

Call it love at first line. This book is an engaging. light- read that takes the reader on a history tour of twelve metro stops around the city. The book strikes a great balance between offering insights of the city that are of historic value while offering entertaining anecdotes and tales of the city that this blogger is head over heels about.

Greg Dallas' "Metrostop Paris: History from the City's Heart" is a worhtwhile read for all Paris lovers and great bed side reading, or better still a great read to take on the metro to the various stops described by Dallas.

Amazon.com describes the book perfectly:

"The book includes visits to Paris’s catacombs at ‘Hell’s Gate’, the literary cafés and old jazz cellars of Montparnasse and Saint-Germain-des-Prés and the seventeenth-century alleys of the Marais, along with trips to the Palais-Royal at the time of the Revolution and the world of opera during Claude Debussy’s lifetime. Through the eyes of the existentialist philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre, Dallas describes the German occupation of Paris during the Second World War and the intellectual wars that immediately followed. A visit to the futuristic Cité de la Science at La Villette prompts the story of the Marquis de Morès, the French ‘cowboy’ and anti-Semite, who was eventually murdered by tribesmen of the Sahara Desert in 1896. Outside the Jesuit church of Saint-Paul Dallas tells us about Gabriel de Montgomery – forgotten ancestor of Montgomery of Alamein – who accidentally killed his king just there and, after leading the Protestant armies against Catherine de Medicis, was executed on the Place de Grève. This exciting journey through time and space concludes at the Cemetery Père Lachaise with the unknown tale of Oscar Wilde’s strange involvement in the Dreyfus Affair, the greatest legal scandal of all time."

J'♥ Le Plomb du Cantal, Paris

Revisited a restaurant introduced to me by a good friend - "Le Plomb du Cantal" for hearty South Western France cooking. There are simply no words to describe how delicious and divine the food is here - I am even a bit weepy out of sheer joy and pleasure.

The address to this delicious cure from the winter blues is 4 Boulevard Saint-Denis, 75010 Paris. For further directions, click HERE.

And, it seems that the place has several other very good recommendations from happy, well fed customers - click HERE

Concert: Notre Dame de Paris

Cathedrale Notre dame de Paris - Puer Natus Est Highlight from George on Vimeo.

A highlight from " Puer Natus Est" a concert in medieval latin hosted by Cathedrale Notre Dame de Paris.

Well, my highlight video here is as grainy and unclear as they come - but suffice to say the concert was a great experience with music dating back to times before and around the completion of Cathedrale Notre Dame around 1345.

Directed by Sylvain Dieudonne, this religiously themed concert around the propechy of a Judeo-Christian prophet, Isaiah about the birth of a child - king was both a tantalising glimpse into the style of music that woud have been sung around the establishment of the Cathedral - and food for thought on some of the theological roots of the Christmas Season.

File - Save As - Christmas 2010. File - New - Save As - Bienvenue 2011 :-)

Paris Christmas, Favourite Things from George on Vimeo.

New Year celebrations are quite a significant time of the festive season here in Paris where well wishes for a "Bonne Annee" are exchanged throughout the month of January, according to an old Parisian I know.

So, it's time to quickly file and save the beautiful memories of Christmas in Paris, 2010 and get ready to enjoy New Year's Eve...

Far from embodying the 'true meaning of Christmas' , the things that I enjoyed most about the past Christmas season had to do with the simpler, more superficial parts of being in Paris. Simple things such as hot chocolate at Hall 1900 Bistrot Cafe ,stained glass windows, "licking the windows" (leche vitrine) of Louis Vuitton, gifts from Sephora :-), walks down the Champs Elysees, Catholic Chapels lit with votive candles....and "snowflakes that stay(ed) on my nose and eye lashes...."

Louvre Auditorium Concerts

Stumbled across an interesting BBC piece on talent scouting at the Louvre auditorium.

The next concert seems to be scheduled for the 6th of January according to the Louvre's programme (in French).

Hoping to get a glimpse of an auditorium that has showcased contemporary and classic musicians, speakers, 'grand masters' of the arts and the like, soon.

The Louvre seems to be open to the public for free on the first Sunday of each month (great to know if you are a student on a budget! :-)

"Skyline": Holiday movie expedition 3

Skyline NEW Official Trailer 2011
envoyé par juimte22. - Les dernières bandes annonces en ligne.

Just watched "Skyline" and good news is that in an apocalyptic alien invasion, Paris emerges unharmed by an army of brain eating extra-terrestrial beings. New York, London, and Frankfurt are not as lucky.

There are several, mixed reviews of the rest of the movie. On one hand. there seems to be general agreement that the movie does well in creating and presenting brilliant special effects. Whether the plot, characters and themes are compelling is doubtful in the minds of many professional movie critics. It seems to be performing decently at box offices worldwide.

I left the movie with the sense that the makers of the film left plenty of room for improvement un-used. They clearly tried their best with what they had available to them - a small cast of characters and widely reported budgetary constraints. But, I'll leave cinematic criticism to expert opinion!

Paris in "The Tourist" (Angelina Jolie/Johnny Depp): Expedition 2

The Tourist - Extrait "Elise" [VO-HD]
envoyé par Eklecty-City. - Regardez des web séries et des films.

Just finished watching "The Tourist" with Angelina Jolie and Johnny Depp:

The film opens with scenes shot in Paris, including the dialogue above: and i was wondering about where the Paris scenes were taken. And, apparently the Paris scene above, and the preceding ones in the movie, where shot at Galerie Vivienne (pictured below) according to material released earlier this year by AFP:

Galerie Viviene's elegance comes out pretty well in "The Tourist" while doing Paris proud. The movie itself is a remake of an old French thriler that has received very mixed reviews thus far, but is okay entertainment if only to catch a glimpse of Paris on the big screen - and Angelina Jolie's gorgeousness.

Link to Galerie Viviene Website

Cathedralé Notre Dame de Paris: On the night of Christmas

Went out to Notre dame cathedral for possibly the most amazing organ recital I've ever come across - simply divine! Above are images of the Cathedral and its lit up Christmas tree taken earlier this evening.

Midnight mass, a walk down Champs Elysees

0215 am: Christmas morning, just returned from attending a midnight mass at an Anglican parish close to the Champs Elysees. Surreally beautiful - a perfect mix of lovely setting, a great hymn selection, time tested tradition and a tinge of relevant, modern commentary - couldn't have imagined a better way to get into the spirit of the day...

Two of my favourite images from the parish were its wooden nativity scene and its modestly furnished altar arrangement:




Restaurants and others were still wide open along the Champs Elysees, so the natural response to talk a post midnight stroll down Champs Elysees, and grab a midnight snack :-)...

White Christmas Eve 2010, Paris

White Christmas Eve 2010, Paris
envoyé par Georgetaf. - Découvrez de nouvelles destinations en vidéo.

Christmas in Paris Collage Part One

Christmas in Paris Collage (1)
envoyé par Georgetaf. - Voyage et découverte en vidéo.

Christmas in Paris offers opportunities to enjoy Paris' sacred and secular sites at a very unique, festive time of the year. This collage puts together new and old images of the city taken over the past month. More to follow!

Louis Vuitton and La Madeleine

Paris - Luis Vuitton, La Madeleine
envoyé par Georgetaf. - Découvrez de nouvelles destinations en vidéo.

It's the season for setting up nativity scenes and window displays, some of which I posted here a few weeks ago. Today, I caught a glimpse of two nativity scenes - sacred and secular but both highly unique. Louis Vuitton on Champs Elysees, with windows adorned with Christmasy-goodies with highly interesting price tags - and the Madeleine, which ditched the traditional Mary and Joseph, baby Jesus and on looking animal nativity scene for a post modern nativity scene. The scene, somewhat captured here on video, is all about symbology and geometry - with the wood used to construct this postmodern minimalist scene representing Joseph and the veil being a symbol for christianity's Dame, Mary. It's a different, brave work of art given that people tend to be conservative when it comes to what elements should be part of a nativity scene. Depending on your taste, the scene at la Madeleine is either thought provoking - capturing the mysticism that characterises the Christmas story - or an overly brave post modernist venture. And as for Louis Vuitton, well, for the student seeing handbags that cost way more than your tuition and living costs of living in Paris is at the least, thought provoking.

Paris Voice: 'Webzine' for English speaking Parisians

Came across a useful link to a 'webzine' for English speaking Parisians (click on the heading above)

The webzine seems to be a useful collection of events in and around Paris, travel to various parts of France, practical tips on life in Paris - and several other useful bits of info for Parisians still brushing up on their French and not confident enough to browse through pages of fully fledged French! :-)

Franco-American Winter Prescription

The response was surprising and filled with disgust after she heard that we were at Starbucks - or in her words "the American place?!" A few French folk that I have come across speak with utter disdain at the idea of setting one's feet in Starbucks, which has not managed to establish much of a presence outside of Paris. Be that as it may, this holiday season - as with others, the "Mocha Praline is on offer and is well worth at least tasting and taking at least once a week or so. it's a light prescription to choose if you have to visit Starbucks while in Paris (Be warned, some people do not look very favourably upon people who visit the place :-))

I must say though that perhaps one of the best cups of hot chocolate to be had during the winter is available at "Hall 1900" (Bistrot Corse) - which is at 64 Rambuteau-75003. The "Chocolat Viennois" here is a beautiful, rich chocolate drink that's difficult to describe accurately in words. This traditional French restaurant has a signature old school French bistro feel to it and is reasonably priced.

An advisable prescription for the winter is a powerful combination of Mocha Praline from Starbucks and a regular in take of Bistrot Corse's hot chocolate.The latter comes as highly recommended! :-)

La Defense, Vapiano

Vapiano, la defense
envoyé par Georgetaf. - Explorez des lieux exotiques en vidéo.

Finally visited the version of Vapiano in La Defense - and must say that it's certainly worth a visit. The food is in keeping with what you'd experience at Vapiano pizza/pasta bars elsewhere in the world, the interior design is great and it's an all in all fantastic experience. The menu is slightly higher than the German one. but this is not significant - it's worth the little extra bit! As winter approaches, Vapiano is perhaps PAris' best kept new secret thus far - the warm inviting interiors, the deliciously fresh pasta and great pizza are a perfect combination to keep the winter blues away.

Holiday Season Cinematic expeditions1: "Rapunzel", "Raiponce"/ "Tangled"

12 am in Paris, just returned from watching Disney's 50th animated motion picture, an interpretation of Rapunzel Raiponce in French).

The movie's also being marketed as "Tangled" in other markets.

Well, Walt Disney delivers a deliciously beautiful, family friendly treat for 'kids from 1 to 92' in keeping with its' well-earned reputation for
offering tasteful escapism and adding light to the holiday season.

The movie however underscores that while Disney is becoming more mature, it's comfortable with moving with the times - and is accordingly s presented in 3D format. Nonetheless, the#D aspect only serves to enhance the Walt Disney magic ingredients that anyone who has grown up on a steady diet of Disney movies will appreciate for their familiar look and feel: A fantastic soundtrack, a great interpretation of a cherished childhood fairytale mixed with a generous portion of tasteful humour.

Raiponce is a light hearted way to kick of the last stretch of an interesting year at the movies- the year of Inception, Wall Street, Eat Pray Love' and so forth. It certainly is worth the time and other investments that go with going out to the movies in the snow when you can spend time with loved ones at home.

(The video above is one that I stumbled across on youtube of images taken from the movie played to a signature Disney movie ballad. Beautiful)

Setting the Scene

Having Anglo-Catholic roots, and being in a Catholic country - and having one week to go to Christmas, I set out to setting up a simple nativity scene.. Pictures of the season to follow from around the city!

Hotel de Ville at Christmas

Hotel De Ville, Christmas
envoyé par Georgetaf. - Voyage et découverte en vidéo.

Each year, an ice rink is set up right in front of Hotel de Ville for those with great coordination between their different joints. It's a fun activit..

Note, however, that it's not completely safe from show offs eager to put their ice skating skills on display :-)!

Here are a few mobile phone images of the public ice skating rink at a Hotel de Ville decked with christmas lighting.

'The Seasons' - Paris Winter

The Seasons: December, Paris
envoyé par Georgetaf. - Voyage et découverte en vidéo.

As christmas approaches, and winter makes here beautiful entrance with gentle snowfall, Paris looks prettier than ever. These are images of Paris weather doing it's best to make sure we have a white Christmas next weekend. Sugar frosted lawns, sidewalks and streets - Paris breaking into winter is a sight for sore eyes.

Impressive videography that captures the city's key monuments..

Le Flâneur from Luke Shepard on Vimeo.

This video is "Soo Paris"!

Barbra Streisand gone wild in Paris from Niels A. JANIN on Vimeo.

With Duck Sauce's dance music-hit of 2010, " Barbra Streisand" in the background, this is a brilliant video capturing the Paris that this blogger loves and can't wait to enjoy in greater measure when exams come to an end tomorrow evening - well, until the 4th of January that is, when the next batch of exams commence. In the meantime though, this is a fantastic collage of various points in the city that I enjoy visiting.

Snowy Paris

Snowy Paris
envoyé par Georgetaf. - Evadez-vous en vidéo.a very few images of snow in Paris, at the height of end of term exams and papers. The images capute snow both real and 'man made'. Apparently, the lights on the Champs Elysees are supposed to have the appearance of bright, constantly falling electrical(?!) snow..

Nighttime Paris

Paris at Night
envoyé par Georgetaf. - Explorez des lieux exotiques en vidéo.

These are random images of Paris at night , taken from a mobile. It's remarkable how every corner seems to be well lit - and how the city lives up to being the "city of light". While the name was initially an allusion to the intellectual and other forms of enlightenment, then Paris being the first city to introduce electric city lights.

The Poor People of Paris

Being one of the most sung about cities, there is no shortage of odes old and new to Paris. Here's one, humorous, 'cute' song of pity directed toward the "poor people of Paris' by none other than "Dino", Dean Martin - who by the way has another great version of 'la vie en rose' sung in English. They don't make them like this anymore! Enjoy...

Oh, and the lyrics are included below!:

Dean Martin-The Poor People of Paris

Just got back from Paris, France
All they do is sing and dance
All they got there is romance
What a tragedy....

Every boulevard has lovers
Every lover's in a trance
The poor people of Paris

I feel sorry for the French
Every guy has got a wench
Every couple's got a bench, kissing shamelessly

Night and day they're making music
While they're making love in French
The poor people of Paris


Milk or water from a sink
Make a true Parisian shrink
Wine is all he'll ever drink
And it worries me....

For with wine as cheap as water
Oh it makes one stop and think
The poor people of Paris

Sister met a boy named Pierre
Had the craziest love affair
And the day after they parted there
He cried bitterly....

Pierre was there to bid her farewell
But he brought his new girl Claire
The poor people of Paris....

So don't go to Paris, France
Not unless you'd like a dance
Not unless you want romance
Like those poor inhabitants, of Paris....

In the meantime, I got to hurry back there
I, I think I forgot something....

Katherine Jenkins, la vie en rose (Live)!

"La vie en rose" is perhaps one of those Edith Piaf 'staples' that is easy to quickly cite to display that you have some sort of knoweldge of French music and its key historical figures. earlier this year, this blogger stumbled across a strong contender for the richest, highly textured rendition of the Piaf classic, performed by "chantrice'. Katherine Jenkins. She does an amazing job of remaking the classic and in this TV appearance that I just stumbled upon - she delivers a great performance.

In our weekly French lesson, "la vie en rose' came as highly recommended for French beginners serious about learning how to learn French conjugations through 'chansons'. Great pedagogical tool this one!

French: Gender lines blurred in language as in life

The battle to grasp the basics of French continues - with an impending french exam around the corner. It is evident that the rules that determine what is feminine or masculine in French are very murky. Now, Noam Chomsky and other famous linguists before i have long posited that there is a clear linkage between language and how people think - and well, id the gender confusion that is so embedded in the French language is any reflection of an actual blurry distinction between male and female in France: all i can say is that this must be a very confusing place for straight women to clearly tell who in the fish pond is straight, gay or taken. A rudimentary look aound Paris also seems to confirm it: that as in the French language itself, the rules of gender are very much blurred! :-) It's often hard to tell the social gender simply by looking at Parisian men in particular. Historian Alistair Horne even identifies this ambiguity as far back as the middle ages where men he asserts were prone to wear saucy, short pants that even revealed part of their tender hind sections- and distinctly more jewelry than their women folk. As it was back then, the gender lines are as blurred in language as in life.

( For practical purposes, I stumbled across a resource on masculine and feminine words in French - click on the heading above)

Comparative Politics Class – Why political institutions don’t matter that much.

I am currently working on a paper for a comparative politics class – and in it I wrestle with the broader question of why certain states so easily achieve remarkable policy change – and others continue to flounder.
There are the well -worn perspectives that perhaps it all boils down to the quality, maturity and strength of a country’s institutions. From this perspective, the older, more stable political systems with tried and tested – resilient – institutions are more well positioned to deliver progressive legislation and place impressive policy reform into motion.
It’s an interesting perspective – and instinctively, it makes sense. If you take a rudimentary look around, and contrast say Mozambican institutions that are relatively new and fragile – when contrasted with say France, on the other hand whose constitutional history spans across the decades. It seems commonsensical to conclude that the older, the more mature a country is – the better quality of legislation and the more progressive such countries are likely to be:
Several examples bear this point of view out: France on the one hand, has managed to create progressive legislation in the fields of energy, on various social issues and boasts one of the world’s most progressive social protection systems.
Yet, as with any other theoretical perspective – this view is not infallible. At the beginning of this century, South Africa was a fragile, new democracy with untested new institutions and a constitution fresh out of the oven and a court wet around the ears mandated to safeguard that same constitution.
Nonetheless, despite it’s immaturity and lack of experience, South Africa managed to progress to be one of the most liberal and progressive constitutional systems – affording its citizens an advanced set of rights to allow for same sex unions among other aspects. Whereas, taking the example of France – similar legislation has been somewhat less progressive. French same sex couples enjoy markedly less rights in contrast to their South African counterparts.
The question then is how does this occur? How does a new, fragile institutional framework as academic wonks call it, produce an inconsistently progressive legislation?
It boils down not to the availability or strength of institutions – but it rather has more to do with incentives. And not just incentives, but it is a result of how compatible incentives are of institutions – and of a given policy reform. It does not matter how strong institutions are – all that matters is whether institutions have incentives to implement a reform that are compatible with advocacy groups calling for a given reform. This is how South Africa, a young democracy mages to have such a liberal approach to certain social issues, where an older democracy like France seems to flounder. The incentives to reform are too disparate and irreconcilable.
This should have implications on how we perceive calls for change – it is not a function of power and institutions – but of incentives and motivation.

Vapiano!

After moving to Paris, one of the things that this blogger missed was a certain chain of unique "Pizza/Pasta Bars", Vapiano. The concept behind Vapiano is accessibly chic - an effortlessly sophisticated place to go out that still manages to pull of being accessible and humble.

Vapiano itself desribes itself perfectly as "an innovative European concept serving made-to-order fire roasted pizzas, fresh, house-made pasta and hand tossed gourmet salads. An established concept with more than 30 worldwide locations and another 100 in development in the United States, Europe and the Middle East, Vapiano puts a new spin on the dining experience with its urban upscale Italian decor and its modern customer service."

The great news is that the first pizza/pasta bar is now open in Paris! Well, technically in an up scale suburb of Paris at 2 Place du Dôme, 92800 Puteaux - which is in the big commercial centre for that part of Paris, the Centre Commercial des Quartre Temp.

The ambience and experience of going out to Vapiano - and the food border on the very best that you find anywhere. It's so worth it!!

The random images above and below were taken in a Frankfurt 'chapter' of Vapiano - and this bloggers first encounter with Vapiano. Can;t wait to check out the Paris edition!

Click on the heading for a link to the website of Vapiano international - it comes as highly recommended!

From the lips of a legend: Ave Maria - Deanna Durbin

Stumbled across an old clip of Deanna Durbin, who reportedly now lives somewhere on the outskirts of Paris. She built a sound career in film in the 30s, and acted alongside names as big as Judy Garland. After her career took a turn, she slowly eased out of public life andnow lives here, and is to some extent immortalized as a young, hollywood beauty on screen for the rest of film history.

Mobile Phone Video - Champs Elysees

Video images taken earlier this week, via mobile phone of the recently lit Champs Elysees.

First drops of snow

St. Germain l'Auxerrois

These are images taken from St. Germain l'Auxerrois that arguably has the most impressive stained glass windows in Paris. These stunning works of art apparently survived the French revolution and several other threats to the building's integrity. The building itself dates as far back as the 7th Century and used to hold substantial political significance as the parish of France's monarchs who used the Louvre as a palace. This would have made St Germain l'auxerrois significant between the 12th to the 18th Century.

As a work of art and a sacred space - the building itself is quite stunning and has a beautiful side chapel that could work as a place of solitude or a corner to grab a moment of calm.

However, some historians are quick to note that the history of this still active parish has not been entirely positive - given that the ringing of its bell was a signal to set off the persecution and slaughter of Hugenots in 1572.

Nonetheless, appreciating this as a place that embraced within its walls historical figures such as King Phillipe Auguste, who laid the first stones of the Louvre as a monarchical residence - and Louis XIV (well, partly - given that he moved to VErsailles) gives this building some weight of history.

It also does not seem to be on the tourist trail. So, it's a a relatively peaceful place to visit and beautifully located in the centre of Paris, very close to the Seine.

http://www.saintgermainauxerrois.cef.fr/

"Champs" lit up for Christmas 2010

With Christmas a month away, Champs Elysees is dressed for the part. Here are a few images from my mobile phone. Pardon the quality :)

General Petraeus at Sciences Po: Of Killer Rabbits and Afghanistan

Today General Patraeus who heads the NATO effort in Afghanistan gave a compelling, humble assessment of the campaign's progress in Afghanistan at Sciences Po. I was fortunate to go along and hear him speak. While I recorded some video footage, the quality is extremely poor and not suitable for posting here.

Anyhow, Gen Petraeus spoke candidly on the track record of NATO partners in Afghanistan, painting a sober, nuanced picture of how well the campaign is fairing. He painted a portrait of mixed success and tried to bring the audience to an appreciation of the regional and practical challenges of running such a campaign. While there remained significant work to be done in "suffocating" insurgent networks , cutting them off from the various crutches that support their existence - his metaphor not mine - through what he referred to as an "anaconda' approach to counter-insurgency: There were some notable gains in the battle for the minds and hearts of Afghans, according to Petraeus. The number of kids in schools had leapt from under 1 million in 2001 to over seven times that amount at present as a case in point. Several roads had been paved and made travel less of a nightmare, since 2001.

That said, he did not gloss over the challenges that partners face in combating corruption for example - and in coordinating the administration of donor aid..

BUT - this blogger really appreciated the type of person the General came across as - humble and accessible. He's really a great choice to be the face and voice of the Nato operation. Before leading into a discussion of the technicalities of the operation in Afghanistan - the General went on a charm offensive. Launching compliments to the audience of Paris's elite - the General extolled the role of French forces in international peace and security before launching into an even more charming encouragement to the gaggle of students to take our graduate studies seriously.

In a matter of seconds, General Petraeus debunked stereotypes of military men as being dour and stiff.

I particularly enjoyed a sweet anecdote he shared on a certain rabbit who was working on his doctoral thesis. And apparently the little creature's hypothesis was along the lines of rabbits being the most ferocious hunters of all. To which the curt response of an unsuspecting wolf was "what is your data and evidence to back that claim?'

Seeing that the only way to prove his point would be to invite the wolf into his rabbit hole, the rabbit descends into his hole with the wolf and makes an example of the poor wolf. Other more dangerous animals including a ferocious tiger and a bear, dare to question his hypothesis only to become case studies of the murderous nature of rabbits.

So, the rabbit's thesis is repeatedly validated to the chagrin and confusion of all of the forests animals. So, a forest wide meeting is convened to find interrogate the rabbit's findings and the secret behind his success in validating such an offbeat thesis. Exasperated, the forest animals resolve to send an old wise owl in the dead of night to discover Rabbits secret.

The owl manages to coax rabbit into conversation and asks what his secret is? How does he manage to consistently validate such a far-fetched thesis?

The secret, the rabbit insists, lies in having a great academic adviser. You can;t go wrong with a great academic advisor.

If there is anything I'll always remember regardingGeneral Petraeus' personal affability - it will probably be tied to this charming anecdote and encouragement on the benefits of having a great advisor when drafting a thesis:) It was a great pleasure to hear him speak on both the weightier issues of the Afghani operation and more importantly, on how - with the right adviser - you can produce a convincing thesis on killer rabbits! :)

Doctoral Studies in France? How France measures up to the States

For students who have gone through English medium universities, the choice to study in France is often not an obvious one. he English speaking world has several great options for the young academics to choose from - while the linguistic barrier of studying in France only serves to be discouraging for the would-be students fromAnglophone would-be students.
In recent years, however, the French system has become somewhat more international, English programmes are increasingly available at several top French universities. Furthermore, Paris as a city to study in has become more open to English speakers, making settling into Paris manageable. Given thar French institutions and the city are definitely more open and cosmopolitan and friendly to foreigners here to study - there is a definite case to be made for picking out Paris as a study destination option.
The question that still remains is whether France is the best place to begin and build an academic career for graduate students intending to pursue careers in research and academia. A recent news article seems to suggest that "the French labour market does not place value on PhD theses" and that the US in particular issignificantly more open to research-oriented students.

Click on the heading above for a link to an insightful piece on how French academia measures up to the United States.

A taste of Southern France: Le Plomb du Cantal Restaurant!

Having a great dinner out is often a combination of several things - great company, location, time of the year - well whatever it is that drives personal choice.

And well, striking that balance is almost always tricky. Nonetheless, this blogger can testify to have had just the right mix of all factors that make for a good eating out experience at 'le plomb du cantal' - a restaurant at 3 Rue de la Gaite, in 75014.

The menu is a selection of traditional food from the Auvergne region - hearty, traditional French cuisine. Everything from sauteed potatoes served with veggies to large portions of salad to geneorus ommelettes -it's a fantastic place to eat out particularly as winter approaches. The restaurant's "aligot' deserves special mention. Several of the dishes are served with this puree of potatoes that is melded with grated cheese to produce an exquisite, unique, indescribably good side dish to the restaurants predominantly meat based selection of main courses. Aligot is a must have at this venue!

The restaurant is always packed, giving it a dynamic, energetic vibe. Conversely, that also means that getting a seat immediately is not a given. It's a popular eating spot, reservations are not possible so waiting for a while is part of the experience. Once seated, however, the service is great, the food even more so, and the atmosphere is charged with a buzz that makes the place a great place go out in larg(er) groups.

Adding to the highly satisfactory selection of food and the excellent service - is the restaurant's warm, welcoming furnishing all made in deep, rich warm, inviting colours. Couches comfortable enough to eat on, wooden chairs, it's a cosy place to huffle up, eat a hearty meal and have agood night out. All of this is contained within varnished wooden walls that lend the place a distinct mountain house feel - well, given that the restaurant is the namesake of one of the tallest mountains in the Cantal mountain range in South West France, the alpine feel and look of the place is clearly not intentional.

The price range is between 15 Euro and about 30 for a main course - so this could be steep for those on a student budget. But, for the fully human - it's reasonable, and the generous portions definitely make the pricing worth it.

it's nine hours after the meal and I won't be eating for a few more hours - that's just how deliciously hearty the meals are! it's worth it to get a taste of South West France right here in Paris!

A history of looted Parisian Art

The New York Times recently carried a fascinating piece on some of the city's famous art pieces that were seized as wartime booty in the past. Focusing particularly on the Louvre and Identifying Paris as the most significant victim of Hitler's art theft during the second world war t "Hunting for looted Art in Paris" is a fascinating read written from the perspective of an author who made Paris the centre of her research as a grad student about nine years ago. it's a really good read.

(click on the heading above to read the NY times piece! it's worth a read.

Paris month of photography - catching the tail end

Dutch photographer Ellen Kooi makes her debut Paris exhibition between the 17th of November and the 22nd of December at the Dutch Institute. Her work is usually surrelaistic, thought provoking and quite stunning indeed. Can't wait to see her work over this weekend! But, in the meantime will have to make do with paging through her website www.ellenkooi.nl.

And find out how o get to the dutch institute at it's website :http://www.institutneerlandais.com

Open to the public is "Paris Photo 2010" . Tickets to the event and prices are detailed on the website. The little quote here gives a bit of insight on "Paris Photo" which takes place at the Carrousel de Louvre.

"Annual photography fair Paris Photo brings together, from November 18th to the 21st, one hundred international galleries and publishers presenting a panorama of the finest examples of photographic expression from the 19th century to the present day.

Paris Photo also turns the spotlight on the Central Europe scene, reveals new talents through awards and competitions and offers a rich programme of events and encounters.

The 14th Paris Photo edition coincides with the biennial “Mois de la Photo”, a month-long photographic event, turning the city into the photography capital of the world in November."

Their website - www.parisphoto.fr - is a bit of a slap dash and 'artsy' but navigable...


The legendary Andrée Putman has an exhibition on display at the 'town hall' Hotel de Ville. Open everyday save for Sunday, between 10 am and 7pm. The French icon who is famous for several artistic feats and her mastery of monochrome, black and white works and design should be worth checking out.

See a bit of her work at www.studioputman.com

"Croissant" performed by Jay Brannan

Croissants are a quintessential part of the French diet - along with other staples "pain au chocolat' (literally translated 'bread with chocolate - and other such confectionaries.

Recently, I stumbled across a glum, depressing but thought provoking acoustic song christened after that quintessential piece of french food - the croissant. Sung by Jay Brannan, a 'youtube sensation' if there ever was one :) - the musician likens himself to 'a croissant' as an image of how ordinary and what an average joe he is in the face of his much more sophisticated love interest. The imagery sounds a bit silly but it's a morose, imperfect song that nonetheless sweet piece of acoustic musicianship.

Mind Your Language!

Every Tuesday and Thursday we meet for a commonly loved time, 'special class' for foreigners who do not know the first thing about French (a common identity that is constantly reinforced by Parisians who are rarely shy to point out how dim you come across for not speaking the language).

Well, to be fair, our 'French for dummies' course is more appropriately called "French level 0", but we know that "level 0" is code for names that are not nice to call other people.

Well, so we trudge along in the small, wee hours of the morning (by student standards 8 am is the dead of night). And in the midst of both our interior dimness and darkness without, it always dawns upon us that it's not too bad after all, being in "level 0" French. There are several beauties of being a dummy. You learn the language at 8 am and get to unleash your newly acquired few sentences on irritable shop attendants and other employees in the service industry.

To top it all off, the French-language learning process also serves a distinctly moralistic function. Being there always turns into a goldsmith's furnace that forges our oversized egos into well formed, modest souls as we are brutally faced with the horrid levels of our ignorance.Twice a week we are reduced to nothing and reminded of how much we don't know about French. This is how character has been formed throughout the ages.

This morning, however, as I was sitting in class it occurred to me: we are a French class version of that old Brit comedy, "Mind Your Language' and in that moment I developed a new empathy for the French teacher. If we are anything like that Classic TV depiction - what horror tempered with humour it must be - ah, the joys of learning a language at an obscenely old age.

'Tis the season...

Some of the very first Christmas lights and window displays are out, with Christmas just a little over six weeks away. Designed into Eastern tapestries the light displays at Galleries Lafayette (which is a shop-til-you-drop sized complex in Paris) are deliciously impressive. Beyond that,well, how you see the light display is really in the eye of the beholder.

For little kids and adults of a joyful and youthful disposition, the animated window displays - some accompanied with show tunes by Liza Minnelli, Gene Kelly and Abba among others - are welcome entertainment as the weather gets colder and moodier.

For the academic-sophisticate, it's a given. Galleries Lafayette is a shameful symbol of all that is wrong with the world today. The excessive wattage dedicated to those lights stares in the face of economic austerity and not to forget the environment. " How environmentally efficient are those lights?" certainly crosses the mind of some people. Viewed from the ivory tower, the first lights of Christmas are undoubtedly a gaudy act of worship to avarice and wanton capitalism. And so the interpretations can go on and on.

Yet, for the student in Paris - the displays are at the least, a welcome distraction - and at most, a depressing reminder. For the positive minded student, the display should be well received as a means of escapism from the world of mid-term exams, papers and presentations. But, in the most part, the first Christmas lights - and the window displays prepared by some of the major fashion and design houses in the world area crystal clear reminder of student poverty for this sad, sad demographic that this blogger belongs to... It's a reminder that it's still very much a rich man's world, this one.

Without a shortage of beautifully clad mannequins in 3000 Euro shirts and obscenely priced Christmas gift suggestions - Galleries Lafayette is a great destination for modestly-resourced students to do a bit of 'leche vitrines' as it is called around these parts - window shopping. Or, more literally translated, to do a little bit of 'licking of windows'. Sigh.

House for all books anglophile in Paris: Shakespeare and Company

For Anglophiles in Paris, Shakespeare and Company is a great place to browse through an impressive collection of books that cover subject matter as broad as philosophy on the one hand - to books on the murky science of witchcraft on the other. It's a crammed but cosy cavernous little store with little nooks to sit and browse through potential purchases. However ...if the truth be told, Shakespeare and Co. has the welcoming aura of a house and actually feels nothing like a shop. This is perhaps what makes it a great place to stop by or shop. The doors are almost always open thanks to business hours that are quite generous: The store opens until 11pm on the weekends for example.

There's also a quaint, lovely little library on the second floor (pictured here) where you can enjoy the company of great works of English literature and such. That's not all - not too far from the quaint library room are great kids books for budding little readers - and a room from which I think I heard something like a piano recital go on this past Saturday night.

It's a great place to go to hunt for a good read and to see what's new in English writing. Maybe it could also be a place to serve more psychological needs too - to help ease bouts of disorientation if you're an English speaking 'alien' in Paris. For me, well, it's a great place to simply enjoy the comfort and company brought only through generations of writing crammed along every inch of wall and in every single room, leaving just enough space to walk and perhaps sit and read. It's a really fantastic little place that will instantly make you feel at home and is definitely worth a visit.

See "Links!" bar to the left or visit www.shakespeareandcompany.com for more info!

To hotel de ville, along the seine: Images

St. Germain des Prés: Impressive pillars, ancient walls

It is one of the oldest churches in Paris - and a stunning confluence of Gothic and Romanesque architecture. St Germain des Prés is both home to an ancient abbey and is still actively used as a place of worship. It's walls and remarkable pillars attest to its remarkable history and pride of place as one of the city's most enduring pieces of historical and religious significance.

It also happens to be where Rene Descartes 'lies in repose'...

Paris then and now: 11 November 1918 footage

It's at a great price that Paris is one of the greatest places to live and study. Thanks to the sacrifice of men and women who selflessly sacrificed for a cause greater than themselves - we walk and live in a beautifully free, elegant city. A critical milestone in entrenching France and Paris' place in the 'free world' was the armistice of 1918that France commemorates today, as a public holiday. This time in 1918 Paris was electric with excitement at the end of the 'war to end all wars'. The footage here gives a bit of insight into this day in historical perspective. Viewed in hindsight, there is a lot to be thankful for to be living freely and under vastly different circumstances.

WW1 Armistice Day footage 1918

It's a glum, grey and morosely beautiful day in Paris: And a public holiday in commemoration of the armistice of 1918 that many believed ( at the time) signaled the end of all wars, and the dawn of an eternal epoch of democracy.

Fast forward to the present, Europe is a vastly different place to what it was close to a century ago. Which is a short space of time as far as the history of human civilisation goes. Well, while in the interim there was a second, equally epic, war, the several lives and costs of two wars seem not to have been borne or lost in vain. As a case in point the European Union remains the most ambitious experiment at regional integration today - and a powerful political statement of this continent's leaders at moving beyond the past. More symbolically, the existence of the EU is perhaps the highest honor to the memory of the lives of the people that France remembers today. The footage below gives an interesting insight into just how far France and Europe have come - and it is impressively far. From war to the most powerful regional configurations on the face of the earth.

Now this is not to say that the EU is without its problems - particularly today as it faces conflict of a vastly different kind. The challenges today seem to have a distinctly economic tenor - and more so, emerge not necessarily from conflict between the powerful states of Europe - but more so from countries on the peripheries of the continent struggling to manage runaway current account deficits in contrast to say, Germany that sits on an impressive trade surplus.

It's a different era, and the concerns of 1918 seem far removed from today. But be that as it may, the mere presence of a Union among former enemies struggling with economic issues definitely seems to underscore the fact that not only has Europe come a long way - but that the lives lost were definitely not lost in vein.