June Anderson - CANDIDE (1989) Leonard Bernstein conducts

The lyrics are quite thought provoking. A deep, morose, depressing reflection on a Parisienne who finds herself in a city where she feels the very real pressure to fit in and play the role of a happy socialite: To conform to the less pleasant part of Paris - that part that is demanding, snobby, and at times unforgiving of people who do not necessarily fit into the mould. But, there are several other things to love Paris for...

Here are the lyrics, performed by a leading voice of Opera, June Anderson. Paris opera buffs should, as a matter of course, love this diva.


Glitter and be gay,
That's the part I play;
Here I am in Paris, France,
Forced to bend my soul
To a sordid role,
Victimized by bitter, bitter circumstance.
Alas for me! Had I remained
Beside my lady mother,
My virtue had remained unstained
Until my maiden hand was gained
By some Grand Duke or other.

Ah, 'twas not to be;
Harsh necessity
Brought me to this gilded cage.
Born to higher things,
Here I droop my wings,
Ah! Singing of a sorrow nothing can assuage.

And yet of course I rather like to revel,
Ha ha!
I have no strong objection to champagne,
Ha ha!
My wardrobe is expensive as the devil,
Ha ha!
Perhaps it is ignoble to complain...
Enough, enough
Of being basely tearful!
I'll show my noble stuff
By being bright and cheerful!
Ha ha ha ha ha! Ha!

Pearls and ruby rings...
Ah, how can worldly things
Take the place of honor lost?
Can they compensate
For my fallen state,
Purchased as they were at such an awful cost?

Bracelets...lavalieres
Can they dry my tears?
Can they blind my eyes to shame?
Can the brightest brooch
Shield me from reproach?
Can the purest diamond purify my name?

And yet of course these trinkets are endearing,
Ha ha!
I'm oh, so glad my sapphire is a star,
Ha ha!
I rather like a twenty-carat earring,
Ha ha!
If I'm not pure, at least my jewels are!

Enough! Enough!
I'll take their diamond necklace
And show my noble stuff
By being gay and reckless!
Ha ha ha ha ha! Ha!

Observe how bravely I conceal
The dreadful, dreadful shame I feel.
Ha ha ha ha!

Virtual Tour of Opera Garnier

Click on header above for a virtual tour of Paris' famous Opera House, and one of this blogger's favourite baroque-esque buildings that housed the Paris Opera from 1875 to 1989. Palais Garnier still holds her own as an impressively elaborate work of art, and home to the Opera, although from the early 90s, the honor of housing opera and ballet has shifted from this beautiful structure. A production of Swan Lake is scheduled for later this year, tickets are already nearly sold out. This blogger looks forward to Swan Lake in the second half of December!

Right-Wing France 1, Pension-Reformers, 0

As is the trend elsewhere in Europe, the political right seems to feel emboldened and more brazenly conservative than before. The apparent failure to reverse pension reform in France only seems to have served to give the political right the impression that they've won a critical battle.

If voters will punish Nicolas Sarkozy in the next contest for his seat is far from certain. It was precisely because Sarkozy managed to successfully appeal to the right that he owes his power today. Voters who would have voted for a more distinctly right-wing candidate were comfortable moving closer to the centre for a Sarkozy presidency that promised to perfor the 'right' things. His current hardline on pension reform is the gutsy display of power that right wingers love and should serve hm well down the road. Oh, and there is the inadvertent added benefit of terrorism threats - these, the weak defenseless Roma all provide, albeit tragic, opportunity to display the tough state image that handsomely delivered hundreds and thousands of voters into the Sarkozy camp last time round. The polls are now just over a year away

Le Parisien and others had very interesting views on this:

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VIsualisation - Paris Promo Video

There definitely is no shortage of images on the city of Paris that conform to its several stereotypes: as the city of fashion, culture, a continental capital and a city carrying the weight of history. While some people discern a decline in Paris' relevance in the face of new, emerging capitals elsewhere - Dubai as a case in point among others in the "BRIC" countries (Brazil, Russia, India China) - Paris continues to hold its own as a premier haunt of tourists. It remains a strong contender as a lucrative destination for several reasons -

Check this out!...


Paris vu du Ciel de Yann Arthus-Bertrand
envoyé par mairiedeparis. - L'info video en direct.">

Spicing up a story that's run its cycle, Latest installment of theBin Laden Tapes

It could be that Le Parisien might be struggling to provide a new angle on a story that's been running for a long time (the debate around pension reform) - the headline story in today's paper looks into undercover policemen infiltrating crowds of protestors.

Also making headlines is Osama Bin Laden's alleged recording warning France to view the holding of French hostages in Niger as al-Qaeda retaliation to treating muslims as second class French citizens and for banning the burqa.

France 24 provides an interesting overview of the days key headlines:

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Changing Seasons, Setting Sun

La patisserie de reves!!

Translated into English, it's called the 'bakery of your dreams' - well, maybe that's a loose translation. But checkout the website! Looks delicious, referred to by a dear french teacher. Making my way to this place ! Can't wait!

(click in the heading above!) more pictures to follow!

A dose of Dion for a dreary Parisian Morning

Newspapers in Paris - becoming easier with death, clearing confusion over the strikes

it is not quite clear yet whether the strikes are over or not, if one looks at today's papers in Paris. And, also in from Switzerland - perhaps death is not so much of a taboo subject, we need to become more at ease about the subject. Maybe bring it up at a party, over coffee, non?

Today's papers reviewed by France 24...

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Brokeback mountain: A case for articulating well in French

french magazine

The first of many links on where to learn and practice French! ( click above)

Darker Autumn Nights in Paris

Paris on Tranquilizer

A sense of 'normalcy' seems to be returning to Paris: there certainly are less armed men in camouflage bearing heavy duty guns in evidence everywhere, the excitement of street protests and revolt is no longer as palpable. Pedestrian traffic is notably thinner - many Parisians seem to be away for the week long holiday, as schools are out! And perhaps there is also the added calming effect of the Senate having pushed through controversial pension reforms, notwithstanding widespread protests and discontent with the legislation. Today would have also been the weekend after the Lady Gaga concert, but instead the shows were canceled and postponed to December. Paris is swallowing a huge , tranquilizing pill.

And the images emerging out the city as the nights set in earlier and become darker are beautiful - the 'city of light' is beginning to live up to its name in a stricter sense. As the passions of a very 'exciting' summer simmer down (i.e. the furore's over Betancourt, the Roma and the clash between Brussels and Paris, then the street protests) - a subtle entrance into Winter is setting in. There is the temporary hope that perhaps, just perhaps, Paris is about to calm itself. ...

Well, we'll see.

All about Pension reform: The week in retrospect

Click above for a comprehensive report on the battle over pensions.

Senate responds to French public...

As French protestors across the country stood up against pension reform - the response from the senate seems to be "deal with it' or more crudely, "yeah, whatever". :-)....

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Protests in France, O-bla-di- o-bla-da, life goes on in Paris

And so it happens that yet another week went past with the headlines dominated by reports on the tension surrounding the new pension reforms, lady Gaga cancellations and that was pretty much all that the news talked about. And for good reason, as the week progressed , the tenor of protests took on a violent tone- students jumped into the fray, transport networks were thrown into chaos. Fuel supplies cut off. Quite a week!

Yet, if you were going about your business, around the centre of Paris, there was little evidence of a crippling strike underway. If none of your kids (oif you do have are in one of the striking school, and if your route to and from work is pretty predictable - transport systems within PAris worked predictably, and there was not really much evidence of ordinary Parisans being brought to their knees by the strike.

The impact seemed to be carefully targeted at key national structures, with a clear objective to sent the message straight to the top. OF course, as the week progressed there were also several reported incidents of violent protestors burning cars for example, and targeting unsuspecting, hapless citizens - but on balance, what seems to have been the broader goal of powerful labour unions was to cripple key, strategic sectors of the economy - and bring the French government to the bargaining table.

WIth legislation passed, one would be blamed for assuming that protestors would have to necessarily acknowledge that they have lost this particular war and gear up to work an extra two years. After all, it would mean that the government would be better placed to generate more income into its pension fund piggy bank, while cutting the deficit which is burdened by debt and a pension program that will be extremely burdened with a growing aging population. One would be blamed for imagining that perhaps the French protestors would see working longer and doing their bit to leave a legacy for their kids and grand kids. But, the plan os to up the ante and protest more strongly next week. Perhaps that's when we'll get to witness the effects ore starkly in the centre of Paris

For now though, life goes on in Paris. There are still the quintessential and annoying tourists everywhere you turn, and beautifully for October - the sun comes out to shine and give us its of summer when autumn should be in full swing. The chatter around pension reform is distant from day to day life in Paris. It's a beautiful autumn, there is not much disruption to city life - life goes on!

Lady Gaga Paris shows canceled!

click above

BBC reports that a vote in the senate won't end protest

click above

dialogue of the deaf?

click above for latest reporting from France 24 on protest action in France, in sharp contrast to the negligible opposition to a recent announcement of a similar pension reform in the UK.

Celine Dion under observation ahead of delivery of twins!

Well, she's not French but, of course one of the biggest selling French-speaking artists of all time - and news just in that she is being monitored in preparation for the delivery of twins! (click above)

Final Push

">19 October: Final Push against Pension reform
Protesters across France staged what many believe is an ill fated last push to force a rethink of pension reform - it is widely expected that the senate, which votes on Wednesday the 20th of October will approve legislation to increase the minimal retirement to 62 from 60 - and make full state pensions accessible at 67 and not 65 as is currently the case. This all in an apparent to slash France's deficit in the face of widespread opposition to a cherished social benefit. Some sources suggest that as many as 71% of the French population support the protestor's cause.

don't say anything about it: gays in the french military

">Paris has held a long tradition of social and cultural openness: and prides itself as being welcoming to men and women regardless of their sexual orientation. The city's mayor, Bertrand Delanoe, is openly gay and well loved and received as an effective, competent mayor who has seen to the introduction of several public administration reforms.( including a much loved bike riding system!)

Yet, sexual orientation remains everything from an uncomfortable dinner conversation to an outrageous sign of the end of days as soon as one steps into one of the outlying suburbs of Paris and the "provinces". Whereas Delanoe is much loved as an openly gay mayor of Paris, it's doubtful whether he would be equally loved elsewhere - he even has had one assassination attempt in an apparent effort to rid France of his perceived abominable 'lifestyle choice' , by a concerned French citizen.

More tellingly, same sex couples enjoy far less privileges to those of their heterosexual counterparts and can only get partnered under a contract (PACS) with restricted benefits.

The rest of France, arguably still has quite a long way to go in their acceptance of "queer' folk. One area where this is clear is the military. Gays in the military remains something that you really don't talk about in France. France 24 recently put this issue of gays in the military up for debate (see link)

Paris, France fuel Hoarding

As the blockade continues, Parisians are making their way to the nearest fuel stop to buy en masse. Several oil distributors report a sharp increase in demand for fuel over the past few days...

BBC reports on dwindling fuel reserves, west Paris clashes, what this means for Sarkozy

It looks like these could be defining days for the Sarkozy presidency, even as discontent with pension reform takes on a more aggressive, ugly face to it. It's the night before mass protests in the city, here, and the boldness of Sarkozy's opposition has never been more manifest.

Paris and the politics of distraction and opportunism

Key legislation to reform France's pension and retirement policy has already passed through the necessary political institutions - and there seem to be very little sign of the Sarkozy administration backing down from reforms that raise the minimal retirement age from 60 to 62, and that also make 67 the age at which French citizens are entitled to receive a full state pension, This used to be 67.
Nonetheless, we're still expecting protest action around Paris and elsewhere tomorrow. Today, truck drivers added their weight to the strike- which may mean that in a few days we will start to see certain things disappear from our shelves. Like myself, several Parisians are probably going to stock their pantries out of panic of walking into bare shelved supermarkets. And of course, it is all over the news that fuel supplies are under threat following the additional weight of fuel industry employees on strike and so forth.
It is interesting then, that as tension mounts around pension reform - interior minister,Brice Hortefeux, issued a warning of a potential al-Qaeada security threat targeted toward Europe and more particularly, France. And a valid question may be whose opportunism is at play here: it could indeed be a valid security threat, with an external force trying to take advantage of a vulnerable country, increasingly crippled y strike action. Or, more cynically, a cold and calculating distraction by French 'ppwers that be' as their resolve to cancel out any reconsideration of pension reform seems to be stronger than ever.
It's hard to tell who is exercising brazen opportunism here, but it should make for an interesting political spectacle...

discovery: Radio France, Free classical music concerts!

Exciting discovery of the day is that "Radio France" that has a concert hall close to the heart of the city also offers high standard classical music concerts, at great prices and often for free!!

Strike Day Two Report

The strike in Paris entered day two - with some of the city's metro lines operating at one third of their usual frequency. While my line was not rescheduled, what this did for commuters was force them onto metro lines hey wouldn't usually use - making th commute a stuffy experience!
More random amateur footage of this here....

Young Parisians in Protest against Pension Policy?

Paris has always had something of a complex relationship with her young academics and students. And today, some of them were out on the streets in support of an issue that ostensibly is the concern of more mature Frenchies - namely the recently passed legislation to increase the minimal retirement age from 60 to 62 and the state pension age from 65 to 67. At the least, maintaing current retirement and pension ages pensions would come at the expense of younger French. In a fast aging continent, the burden on young French of a growing class of pensioners is likely to impose the heaviest weight on them.
But then again, protesting against increasing pension and retirement ages perhaps maintains a part of french identity and keeps alive the long held tradition of antagonistic, disgruntled Parisian students - perhaps its the symbolism that counts here.

Some random, amateur footage:

Paris: Stereotypical, Sublime, Stunning

I am discovering Paris for the first time, and have all the enthusiasm, naivety and passion of a virgin.
And, much like a virgin, my knowledge of Paris, is imperfect. Much of what I will write about in this blog will be open to criticism.
Yet, once again, as any 27 year old virgin would be anxious to point out: while I embark on blogging about a city of which I am only losing my innocence to late in life, I am sincere, eager, and hungry to discover, write about and express as much as I can about the city.
Far from being an expert overview of the city, this blog is a simple collection os first and developing impressions of a newcomer to Paris.
Well, I think that is a convincing disclaimer to kick this blog off: a bit about me:
I moved to Paris at the beginning of September 2010, to take up graduate studies at one of the city’s great Universities.
Apart from studying hard, I had a clear ambition to blog about my experiences of Paris from the second I stepped foot here.
Needless to say, it didn’t quite unfold in such a way. After a month of procrastination, and adjustment to a new life rhythm, I feel sufficiently inspired to begin a blog.
And I must say that Paris in autumn gives a lot to be inspired by!
At the moment, autumn is making a gentle entrance. Summer weather seems to be in a playful tug of war with oncoming winter - with one day’s weather being vastly different from the next.
As this to and fro persists, the beautiful result are a gorgeous juxtaposition of summers lush green colours across the city and beautifully shaded autumn leaves.
Not to be outdone by their surroundings, Parisians shamelessly adorn neutral colours on lush fabrics in preparation of winter - through both the cold and not so cold days too! It’s an effortless elegance that looks stunning along with the summer/autumn/winter scenery across the city.
It’s stunningly gorgeous, Paris. So I guess the least I can do is maintain a blog in her honour :-) Never mind that I am a charlatan about Parisian history and it’s deeply textured, rich, heritage. This is an over ambitious attempt to write about an inspiring, stunning city that comfortably lives up to its many positive stereotypes of being a legendary beauty.