Monday, November 29, 2010

Vapiano!



After moving to Paris, one of the things that this blogger missed was a certain chain of unique "Pizza/Pasta Bars", Vapiano. The concept behind Vapiano is accessibly chic - an effortlessly sophisticated place to go out that still manages to pull of being accessible and humble.

Vapiano itself desribes itself perfectly as "an innovative European concept serving made-to-order fire roasted pizzas, fresh, house-made pasta and hand tossed gourmet salads. An established concept with more than 30 worldwide locations and another 100 in development in the United States, Europe and the Middle East, Vapiano puts a new spin on the dining experience with its urban upscale Italian decor and its modern customer service."

The great news is that the first pizza/pasta bar is now open in Paris! Well, technically in an up scale suburb of Paris at 2 Place du Dôme, 92800 Puteaux - which is in the big commercial centre for that part of Paris, the Centre Commercial des Quartre Temp.

The ambience and experience of going out to Vapiano - and the food border on the very best that you find anywhere. It's so worth it!!

The random images above and below were taken in a Frankfurt 'chapter' of Vapiano - and this bloggers first encounter with Vapiano. Can;t wait to check out the Paris edition!

Click on the heading for a link to the website of Vapiano international - it comes as highly recommended!



Sunday, November 28, 2010

From the lips of a legend: Ave Maria - Deanna Durbin


Stumbled across an old clip of Deanna Durbin, who reportedly now lives somewhere on the outskirts of Paris. She built a sound career in film in the 30s, and acted alongside names as big as Judy Garland. After her career took a turn, she slowly eased out of public life andnow lives here, and is to some extent immortalized as a young, hollywood beauty on screen for the rest of film history.

Saturday, November 27, 2010

Mobile Phone Video - Champs Elysees



Video images taken earlier this week, via mobile phone of the recently lit Champs Elysees.

Thursday, November 25, 2010

St. Germain l'Auxerrois


These are images taken from St. Germain l'Auxerrois that arguably has the most impressive stained glass windows in Paris. These stunning works of art apparently survived the French revolution and several other threats to the building's integrity. The building itself dates as far back as the 7th Century and used to hold substantial political significance as the parish of France's monarchs who used the Louvre as a palace. This would have made St Germain l'auxerrois significant between the 12th to the 18th Century.

As a work of art and a sacred space - the building itself is quite stunning and has a beautiful side chapel that could work as a place of solitude or a corner to grab a moment of calm.

However, some historians are quick to note that the history of this still active parish has not been entirely positive - given that the ringing of its bell was a signal to set off the persecution and slaughter of Hugenots in 1572.

Nonetheless, appreciating this as a place that embraced within its walls historical figures such as King Phillipe Auguste, who laid the first stones of the Louvre as a monarchical residence - and Louis XIV (well, partly - given that he moved to VErsailles) gives this building some weight of history.

It also does not seem to be on the tourist trail. So, it's a a relatively peaceful place to visit and beautifully located in the centre of Paris, very close to the Seine.

http://www.saintgermainauxerrois.cef.fr/

Wednesday, November 24, 2010

"Champs" lit up for Christmas 2010

With Christmas a month away, Champs Elysees is dressed for the part. Here are a few images from my mobile phone. Pardon the quality :)

Tuesday, November 23, 2010

General Petraeus at Sciences Po: Of Killer Rabbits and Afghanistan


Today General Patraeus who heads the NATO effort in Afghanistan gave a compelling, humble assessment of the campaign's progress in Afghanistan at Sciences Po. I was fortunate to go along and hear him speak. While I recorded some video footage, the quality is extremely poor and not suitable for posting here.

Anyhow, Gen Petraeus spoke candidly on the track record of NATO partners in Afghanistan, painting a sober, nuanced picture of how well the campaign is fairing. He painted a portrait of mixed success and tried to bring the audience to an appreciation of the regional and practical challenges of running such a campaign. While there remained significant work to be done in "suffocating" insurgent networks , cutting them off from the various crutches that support their existence - his metaphor not mine - through what he referred to as an "anaconda' approach to counter-insurgency: There were some notable gains in the battle for the minds and hearts of Afghans, according to Petraeus. The number of kids in schools had leapt from under 1 million in 2001 to over seven times that amount at present as a case in point. Several roads had been paved and made travel less of a nightmare, since 2001.

That said, he did not gloss over the challenges that partners face in combating corruption for example - and in coordinating the administration of donor aid..

BUT - this blogger really appreciated the type of person the General came across as - humble and accessible. He's really a great choice to be the face and voice of the Nato operation. Before leading into a discussion of the technicalities of the operation in Afghanistan - the General went on a charm offensive. Launching compliments to the audience of Paris's elite - the General extolled the role of French forces in international peace and security before launching into an even more charming encouragement to the gaggle of students to take our graduate studies seriously.

In a matter of seconds, General Petraeus debunked stereotypes of military men as being dour and stiff.

I particularly enjoyed a sweet anecdote he shared on a certain rabbit who was working on his doctoral thesis. And apparently the little creature's hypothesis was along the lines of rabbits being the most ferocious hunters of all. To which the curt response of an unsuspecting wolf was "what is your data and evidence to back that claim?'

Seeing that the only way to prove his point would be to invite the wolf into his rabbit hole, the rabbit descends into his hole with the wolf and makes an example of the poor wolf. Other more dangerous animals including a ferocious tiger and a bear, dare to question his hypothesis only to become case studies of the murderous nature of rabbits.

So, the rabbit's thesis is repeatedly validated to the chagrin and confusion of all of the forests animals. So, a forest wide meeting is convened to find interrogate the rabbit's findings and the secret behind his success in validating such an offbeat thesis. Exasperated, the forest animals resolve to send an old wise owl in the dead of night to discover Rabbits secret.

The owl manages to coax rabbit into conversation and asks what his secret is? How does he manage to consistently validate such a far-fetched thesis?

The secret, the rabbit insists, lies in having a great academic adviser. You can;t go wrong with a great academic advisor.

If there is anything I'll always remember regardingGeneral Petraeus' personal affability - it will probably be tied to this charming anecdote and encouragement on the benefits of having a great advisor when drafting a thesis:) It was a great pleasure to hear him speak on both the weightier issues of the Afghani operation and more importantly, on how - with the right adviser - you can produce a convincing thesis on killer rabbits! :)

Monday, November 22, 2010

Doctoral Studies in France? How France measures up to the States


For students who have gone through English medium universities, the choice to study in France is often not an obvious one. he English speaking world has several great options for the young academics to choose from - while the linguistic barrier of studying in France only serves to be discouraging for the would-be students fromAnglophone would-be students.
In recent years, however, the French system has become somewhat more international, English programmes are increasingly available at several top French universities. Furthermore, Paris as a city to study in has become more open to English speakers, making settling into Paris manageable. Given thar French institutions and the city are definitely more open and cosmopolitan and friendly to foreigners here to study - there is a definite case to be made for picking out Paris as a study destination option.
The question that still remains is whether France is the best place to begin and build an academic career for graduate students intending to pursue careers in research and academia. A recent news article seems to suggest that "the French labour market does not place value on PhD theses" and that the US in particular issignificantly more open to research-oriented students.

Click on the heading above for a link to an insightful piece on how French academia measures up to the United States.

Sunday, November 21, 2010

A taste of Southern France: Le Plomb du Cantal Restaurant!

Having a great dinner out is often a combination of several things - great company, location, time of the year - well whatever it is that drives personal choice.

And well, striking that balance is almost always tricky. Nonetheless, this blogger can testify to have had just the right mix of all factors that make for a good eating out experience at 'le plomb du cantal' - a restaurant at 3 Rue de la Gaite, in 75014.

The menu is a selection of traditional food from the Auvergne region - hearty, traditional French cuisine. Everything from sauteed potatoes served with veggies to large portions of salad to geneorus ommelettes -it's a fantastic place to eat out particularly as winter approaches. The restaurant's "aligot' deserves special mention. Several of the dishes are served with this puree of potatoes that is melded with grated cheese to produce an exquisite, unique, indescribably good side dish to the restaurants predominantly meat based selection of main courses. Aligot is a must have at this venue!

The restaurant is always packed, giving it a dynamic, energetic vibe. Conversely, that also means that getting a seat immediately is not a given. It's a popular eating spot, reservations are not possible so waiting for a while is part of the experience. Once seated, however, the service is great, the food even more so, and the atmosphere is charged with a buzz that makes the place a great place go out in larg(er) groups.

Adding to the highly satisfactory selection of food and the excellent service - is the restaurant's warm, welcoming furnishing all made in deep, rich warm, inviting colours. Couches comfortable enough to eat on, wooden chairs, it's a cosy place to huffle up, eat a hearty meal and have agood night out. All of this is contained within varnished wooden walls that lend the place a distinct mountain house feel - well, given that the restaurant is the namesake of one of the tallest mountains in the Cantal mountain range in South West France, the alpine feel and look of the place is clearly not intentional.

The price range is between 15 Euro and about 30 for a main course - so this could be steep for those on a student budget. But, for the fully human - it's reasonable, and the generous portions definitely make the pricing worth it.

it's nine hours after the meal and I won't be eating for a few more hours - that's just how deliciously hearty the meals are! it's worth it to get a taste of South West France right here in Paris!

A history of looted Parisian Art

The New York Times recently carried a fascinating piece on some of the city's famous art pieces that were seized as wartime booty in the past. Focusing particularly on the Louvre and Identifying Paris as the most significant victim of Hitler's art theft during the second world war t "Hunting for looted Art in Paris" is a fascinating read written from the perspective of an author who made Paris the centre of her research as a grad student about nine years ago. it's a really good read.

(click on the heading above to read the NY times piece! it's worth a read.

Saturday, November 20, 2010

Paris month of photography - catching the tail end




Dutch photographer Ellen Kooi makes her debut Paris exhibition between the 17th of November and the 22nd of December at the Dutch Institute. Her work is usually surrelaistic, thought provoking and quite stunning indeed. Can't wait to see her work over this weekend! But, in the meantime will have to make do with paging through her website www.ellenkooi.nl.

And find out how o get to the dutch institute at it's website :http://www.institutneerlandais.com

Open to the public is "Paris Photo 2010" . Tickets to the event and prices are detailed on the website. The little quote here gives a bit of insight on "Paris Photo" which takes place at the Carrousel de Louvre.

"Annual photography fair Paris Photo brings together, from November 18th to the 21st, one hundred international galleries and publishers presenting a panorama of the finest examples of photographic expression from the 19th century to the present day.

Paris Photo also turns the spotlight on the Central Europe scene, reveals new talents through awards and competitions and offers a rich programme of events and encounters.

The 14th Paris Photo edition coincides with the biennial “Mois de la Photo”, a month-long photographic event, turning the city into the photography capital of the world in November."

Their website - www.parisphoto.fr - is a bit of a slap dash and 'artsy' but navigable...


The legendary Andrée Putman has an exhibition on display at the 'town hall' Hotel de Ville. Open everyday save for Sunday, between 10 am and 7pm. The French icon who is famous for several artistic feats and her mastery of monochrome, black and white works and design should be worth checking out.

See a bit of her work at www.studioputman.com

"Croissant" performed by Jay Brannan



Croissants are a quintessential part of the French diet - along with other staples "pain au chocolat' (literally translated 'bread with chocolate - and other such confectionaries.

Recently, I stumbled across a glum, depressing but thought provoking acoustic song christened after that quintessential piece of french food - the croissant. Sung by Jay Brannan, a 'youtube sensation' if there ever was one :) - the musician likens himself to 'a croissant' as an image of how ordinary and what an average joe he is in the face of his much more sophisticated love interest. The imagery sounds a bit silly but it's a morose, imperfect song that nonetheless sweet piece of acoustic musicianship.

Tuesday, November 16, 2010

Mind Your Language!

Every Tuesday and Thursday we meet for a commonly loved time, 'special class' for foreigners who do not know the first thing about French (a common identity that is constantly reinforced by Parisians who are rarely shy to point out how dim you come across for not speaking the language).

Well, to be fair, our 'French for dummies' course is more appropriately called "French level 0", but we know that "level 0" is code for names that are not nice to call other people.

Well, so we trudge along in the small, wee hours of the morning (by student standards 8 am is the dead of night). And in the midst of both our interior dimness and darkness without, it always dawns upon us that it's not too bad after all, being in "level 0" French. There are several beauties of being a dummy. You learn the language at 8 am and get to unleash your newly acquired few sentences on irritable shop attendants and other employees in the service industry.

To top it all off, the French-language learning process also serves a distinctly moralistic function. Being there always turns into a goldsmith's furnace that forges our oversized egos into well formed, modest souls as we are brutally faced with the horrid levels of our ignorance.Twice a week we are reduced to nothing and reminded of how much we don't know about French. This is how character has been formed throughout the ages.

This morning, however, as I was sitting in class it occurred to me: we are a French class version of that old Brit comedy, "Mind Your Language' and in that moment I developed a new empathy for the French teacher. If we are anything like that Classic TV depiction - what horror tempered with humour it must be - ah, the joys of learning a language at an obscenely old age.

Monday, November 15, 2010

'Tis the season...

Some of the very first Christmas lights and window displays are out, with Christmas just a little over six weeks away. Designed into Eastern tapestries the light displays at Galleries Lafayette (which is a shop-til-you-drop sized complex in Paris) are deliciously impressive. Beyond that,well, how you see the light display is really in the eye of the beholder.

For little kids and adults of a joyful and youthful disposition, the animated window displays - some accompanied with show tunes by Liza Minnelli, Gene Kelly and Abba among others - are welcome entertainment as the weather gets colder and moodier.

For the academic-sophisticate, it's a given. Galleries Lafayette is a shameful symbol of all that is wrong with the world today. The excessive wattage dedicated to those lights stares in the face of economic austerity and not to forget the environment. " How environmentally efficient are those lights?" certainly crosses the mind of some people. Viewed from the ivory tower, the first lights of Christmas are undoubtedly a gaudy act of worship to avarice and wanton capitalism. And so the interpretations can go on and on.

Yet, for the student in Paris - the displays are at the least, a welcome distraction - and at most, a depressing reminder. For the positive minded student, the display should be well received as a means of escapism from the world of mid-term exams, papers and presentations. But, in the most part, the first Christmas lights - and the window displays prepared by some of the major fashion and design houses in the world area crystal clear reminder of student poverty for this sad, sad demographic that this blogger belongs to... It's a reminder that it's still very much a rich man's world, this one.

Without a shortage of beautifully clad mannequins in 3000 Euro shirts and obscenely priced Christmas gift suggestions - Galleries Lafayette is a great destination for modestly-resourced students to do a bit of 'leche vitrines' as it is called around these parts - window shopping. Or, more literally translated, to do a little bit of 'licking of windows'. Sigh.

Sunday, November 14, 2010

House for all books anglophile in Paris: Shakespeare and Company


For Anglophiles in Paris, Shakespeare and Company is a great place to browse through an impressive collection of books that cover subject matter as broad as philosophy on the one hand - to books on the murky science of witchcraft on the other. It's a crammed but cosy cavernous little store with little nooks to sit and browse through potential purchases. However ...if the truth be told, Shakespeare and Co. has the welcoming aura of a house and actually feels nothing like a shop. This is perhaps what makes it a great place to stop by or shop. The doors are almost always open thanks to business hours that are quite generous: The store opens until 11pm on the weekends for example.

There's also a quaint, lovely little library on the second floor (pictured here) where you can enjoy the company of great works of English literature and such. That's not all - not too far from the quaint library room are great kids books for budding little readers - and a room from which I think I heard something like a piano recital go on this past Saturday night.

It's a great place to go to hunt for a good read and to see what's new in English writing. Maybe it could also be a place to serve more psychological needs too - to help ease bouts of disorientation if you're an English speaking 'alien' in Paris. For me, well, it's a great place to simply enjoy the comfort and company brought only through generations of writing crammed along every inch of wall and in every single room, leaving just enough space to walk and perhaps sit and read. It's a really fantastic little place that will instantly make you feel at home and is definitely worth a visit.

See "Links!" bar to the left or visit www.shakespeareandcompany.com for more info!

Thursday, November 11, 2010

St. Germain des Prés: Impressive pillars, ancient walls

It is one of the oldest churches in Paris - and a stunning confluence of Gothic and Romanesque architecture. St Germain des Prés is both home to an ancient abbey and is still actively used as a place of worship. It's walls and remarkable pillars attest to its remarkable history and pride of place as one of the city's most enduring pieces of historical and religious significance.

It also happens to be where Rene Descartes 'lies in repose'...

Paris then and now: 11 November 1918 footage

It's at a great price that Paris is one of the greatest places to live and study. Thanks to the sacrifice of men and women who selflessly sacrificed for a cause greater than themselves - we walk and live in a beautifully free, elegant city. A critical milestone in entrenching France and Paris' place in the 'free world' was the armistice of 1918that France commemorates today, as a public holiday. This time in 1918 Paris was electric with excitement at the end of the 'war to end all wars'. The footage here gives a bit of insight into this day in historical perspective. Viewed in hindsight, there is a lot to be thankful for to be living freely and under vastly different circumstances.

WW1 Armistice Day footage 1918

It's a glum, grey and morosely beautiful day in Paris: And a public holiday in commemoration of the armistice of 1918 that many believed ( at the time) signaled the end of all wars, and the dawn of an eternal epoch of democracy.

Fast forward to the present, Europe is a vastly different place to what it was close to a century ago. Which is a short space of time as far as the history of human civilisation goes. Well, while in the interim there was a second, equally epic, war, the several lives and costs of two wars seem not to have been borne or lost in vain. As a case in point the European Union remains the most ambitious experiment at regional integration today - and a powerful political statement of this continent's leaders at moving beyond the past. More symbolically, the existence of the EU is perhaps the highest honor to the memory of the lives of the people that France remembers today. The footage below gives an interesting insight into just how far France and Europe have come - and it is impressively far. From war to the most powerful regional configurations on the face of the earth.

Now this is not to say that the EU is without its problems - particularly today as it faces conflict of a vastly different kind. The challenges today seem to have a distinctly economic tenor - and more so, emerge not necessarily from conflict between the powerful states of Europe - but more so from countries on the peripheries of the continent struggling to manage runaway current account deficits in contrast to say, Germany that sits on an impressive trade surplus.

It's a different era, and the concerns of 1918 seem far removed from today. But be that as it may, the mere presence of a Union among former enemies struggling with economic issues definitely seems to underscore the fact that not only has Europe come a long way - but that the lives lost were definitely not lost in vein.

Tuesday, November 9, 2010

Charles de Gaulle 40th commemoration today

Charles de Gaulle remains one of the most central figures in the history of France - having taken a courageous stance to resist Nazi German occupation and later being rewarded for this with a public endorsement of his courage by being awarded the top seat at the helm of fifth republic.

Forty years after his death, his significance is unquestionable - notwithstanding some of the key controversies toward the end of his administration and those riots of 1968 that Parisians refer to as a crucial milestone.

Be that as it may, the picture could not be more different from the current political administration in France that perhaps has significantly lower levels of popularity that those enjoyed by de Gaulle during the peak of his popularity.

click above for a short timeline of his political career!!

Monday, November 8, 2010

The story of the French Republic in a giant box? The Pantheon, a Temple to Reason and the Sacred




The Pantheon needs very little - if any - introduction as one of Paris' most famous monuments to the minds and souls that gave shape to the French republic.

Initially commissioned by the throne as a sacred monument to the Patron Saint of Paris St. Genevieve, the structure was subsequently converted into a monument to both the sacred and secular forces that laid the foundation of France's several republics.

Well, it is a bit creepy that the Pantheon's primary lure are tombs - the bones of dead people, however famous they are, packaged into impressive feats of sculpture, architecture and art. Nonetheless, this eerie but elaborate, impressive structure - with some of the most impressive Corinthian columns anywhere - is worth the time it takes to have a look around.

The artwork and monuments are impressive - from baroque-esque murals to depictions of several famous French historical figures from King Clovis I, Joan of Arc, Saint Genevieve (of course) to Victor Hugo and Alexander Dumas - it is a worthwhile pilgrimage to make to this temple to reason and to the Sacred, too.

The downside is that given its historical significance, the Pantheon tends to attract large crowds and can be a bit difficult to navigate.

The House of Eugene Delacroix

Unlike the more tour-isty museums of Paris, the House of artist Eugene Delcroix is an intimate, hidden artwork collection that is out of the way of the many visitors that make going out on Sunday afternoons, well, not a relaxing experience. If you prefer to have a bit of space to think as you go through artworks, and stare at some and gaze into the eyes of inanimate figures in a painting - then give this place a try. It's a must see: Rich, elegant and well presented. This blogger thoroughly enjoyed visiting the house and autumn garden of one of France's finest artists of all time

Sunday, November 7, 2010

St Sulpice

Images taken from St Sulpice: which is the second largest 'eglise' in Paris, next to Notre Dame. Built first as a romanesque church around the 14th Century - this second iteration of St Sulpice has similar gothic characteristics to Notre Dame and others around the city. The church is dedicated to the memory of St Sulpitius the Pious, a 7th Century Bishop, whose death in the 640s after a life long service to the Catholic Church has inspired remembrance of St Sulpitius every 17th of January. in popular culture, St Sulpice was most recently used as a critical part of the puzzle in Dan Brown's "The Da Vinci Code".

Wednesday, November 3, 2010

US mid term results, replicable in France?

Today's new headlines are a liberal democrat's worst nightmare. On a wave of growing public discontent, and in response to the phenomenal influence of "Tea Party" activists, the Republican party in the US snatched two significant electoral victories - gaining a convincing majority in the House of representatives and barely losing in a fight for control of the second legislative chamber, the Senate.

A close equivalent of this in France would perhaps be Jean Marie Le Pen, or now his politically astute daughter, finally steering France to the right. In this French-version 'tea party' scenario, the very right wing wins the day, either symbolically - as is the case is the US, by gaining the hearts and minds of the French at the ballots by convincing the public that well, it is not so much that the entire global economy is suffering from the effects of an economic recession - but that the "French need to take back their country". The language of politicians and the political discourse would take on the distinctly xenophobic and - to be provocative here - a pinch of fascism. And we would see provincial France take on an amazing new strength and voice in French politics - as we have seen in the US where large corporations seeking business friendly policies have managed to play on the gullibility of those less urbane parts of America to secure the resurrection of the republicans in the House and Senate.

Well, one should't be too hasty in writing the prospects of a dramatic rightward shift in France off as an utter impossibility. The 'right' could yet prove its mettle as a force to be reckoned with: and indeed, we've seen the rise of the right across Europe and some evidence of a rightward shift in France, too.

For one, we've seen a distinct movement to the right on rhetorical level if one listens closely to the tenor of several political player in France. Policy positions on issues ranging from immigration to religious tolerance have also assumed a uniquely right leaning tinge.

Yet,be that as it may, the politics and economics of France remain centralized with Paris at the core of the French political economy - and this could be one of France's key saving graces from the further capture of politics by the conservatives. If France where to go the route of several European countries and became more rightist. OR, more dramatically, if a tea patty like movement were to materialize in France - it would face the challenge of winning over the powerful and significant political and economic core of the French polity - Paris itself. Unlike other parts of Europe, it is reasonable to argue that if Paris where to somehow cease to exist, France itself would follow suit. Such is the centralization of economics and politics of France that Paris is far more than just an important player but a decisive one, too.

Now, given the leftward personality of the city - a shift to the extreme right similar to the US would struggle to receive the light of day in a place as progressive as the French capital. It could be - but it would be an amazing feat to replicate a similarly deep and wide reaching support of the equivalent of a Sarah Palin-kind of politician -led political movement, rising to power on conservative language that often sounds racist and xenophobic. This would be a hard sell to Paris which prides itself for it progressiveness and reverence for rationality. It would be a tough job deepening right wing roots in France when its very heart, Paris, is decidedly leftward - at least in this blogger's opinion.

A French version of the 'tea party' could perhaps have some success here - given the current trends across the continent, the current economic climate, and the emergence of surprisingly conservative speech in French politics. Yet, there is hope hear that the light of day would be limited for such a movement to do too much damage, thanks to the centrality of Paris.

It's unfortunate to have watched the ascendancy of the tea party movement in the US, and more so, to observe the low calibre of it's leadership and to remark that the US public endorsed such a rightward shift. But, such is democracy in the US. As for France, well, while it's feasible that the same would occur, there would likely be an unwilling and grossly resistant political core, Paris. And without it's head and heart on board, the right wing of this country would face challenging times replicating a tea party-like phenomenon here.

For more French analysis of US mid term results, however, see France24's press analysis by clicking on the heading above!

Tuesday, November 2, 2010

"The Seven Ages of Paris"




Well, while riding in the metro and reading through Alistair Horne's 2002 "Seven Ages of Paris", it was difficult not to wince at his vivid use of language to describe Paris' lively and borderline 'barbaric' past. Dividing Paris into seven different epochs, he paints an engaging, well researched portrait of an intriguing, history rich city which this blogger highly recommends! Well, I have actually just completed reading the first 'age' covering 1180 to 1314 but believe it will be fascinating going through the remainder. So far , so good - and gory. The politics, international relations and domestic politics of Paris in her 'first age' are portrayed in quite vivid, fast paced and striking detail - and so far, few paragraphs epitomise the author's gory, bloody, vivid writing as his description of the fate of lovers of Phillipe 'le bel's amorous daughters at the turn of the fourteenth century - whose final moments included being disemboweled, skinned and decapitated in public to an excited Parisian crowd 'screaming itself hoarse' in heady glee at the swift, cruel hand of Philippe le bel's infamous hand of justice. It's a terrific read.

In 2002, Christopher Caldwell of the New York Times, in "Fun Cité'' had this to say about the book:

"Alistair Horne is one of those British historians with a preference for straight-ahead narrative and a fondness for gossip, bloodshed and the bizarre. His ''Seven Ages of Paris'' is a dense but consistently bewitching history that runs from the city's Roman founding to the riots of 1968. Horne enjoys prizing open the Baedeker city (romantic, elegant) to show us the Balzacian one (brutal, seedy) behind it. Often, the tourist Paris is the underworld Paris. In 1964 a woman leapt from the Eiffel Tower, bounced off the roof of a parked car and survived. In 1874 a railway tunnel under Père Lachaise cemetery collapsed, showering corpses onto the tracks. In 1589, at the Château de St.-Cloud, near the present Bois de Boulogne, Henri III (''one of France's more bizarre monarchs, on account of his effeminacy and occasional practice of appearing at official ceremonies in drag'') was stabbed to death while sitting on the toilet by a deranged monk. Horne does not confuse the history of Paris with the history of France. But he renders France unusually vivid by focusing on the one corner of it that millions of foreigners have toured or lived in or dreamed about."

Great book!

Monday, November 1, 2010

Autumn Leaves in Paris

According to an old Parisian I met at the warm, welcoming Anglican community of St George's Parish in an old, chic neighbourhood of the city - Autumn in Paris is ridiculously gorgeous. "It goes on and on and on - and is always stunning". It's late into October, and the weather is beautifully gentle - calm showers, gracious glimpses of the sun. And the autumn leaves - simply beautiful!

Compiled while jogging through, walking in some of Paris' beautiful parks, and along the Seine. Paris is a fabulous place to be in autumn!! (and at any other point too!)

Enjoy...